Thru-Hiker: Gear and Resources for Long Distance Hikers
Fabrics And Materials Fabrics And Materials The Workshop: Make Your Own Gear Projects Articles for Lightweight and Long Distance Hikers

French Seams

Knee Articulation

Hood Pattern

Installing Wrist Elastic

Down Underquilt

Mitten Pattern

Using Continuous Zipper

Titanium Solid Fuel Tablet Stove

Lightweight Backpack

Manual Buttonhole

Basic Seams for Homemade Gear Projects

How to load thread into the bobbin

How to Check and Adjust Thread Tension

Mesh Stuff Sack

Folding Wood Burning Pack Stove

0.5 oz V8 Stove

Cat Stove

Down Quilt

Make Your Own Silnylon Stuffsacks

Henry's Tarptent & Tarptent-for-2

0.5 oz V8 Stove

wpe2A.jpg (54495 bytes) Materials: two V8 sized cans, one soda can, a thumbtack, small scissors, and some glue (super glue, epoxy, or JB Weld - not shown)
wpe35.jpg (14906 bytes) Step 1: Score the inner edge of the concavity at the bottom of a V8 can. You're not trying to cut through, only to create a groove. After the first time around it'll be easier to guide the knife.
wpe37.jpg (13515 bytes) Step 2: Now use the knife to cut the bottom of the can into quarters. Stop cutting when you get to the place you scored in the first step.
wpe3A.jpg (13051 bytes) Step 3: Push the quarters into the can. Be careful of the sharp edges. Bend the quarters back and forth until the metal starts to tear along the score line.
wpe3C.jpg (15694 bytes) Step 4: Remove the quarters from the bottom of the can. The metal should tear cleanly along the score line. Discard the quarters.
wpe41.jpg (29260 bytes) Step 5: Cut the can about 3/4 of an inch from the bottom. This piece will be referred to as the burner.
wpe43.jpg (33546 bytes) Step 6: Cut the top off the same V8 can.
wpe45.jpg (37251 bytes) Step 7: Now cut up the cylinder formed during the last step to end up with an aluminum sheet like the one shown in the picture. This piece will form the inner wall of the stove.
wpe47.jpg (38969 bytes) Step 8: Cut the second V8 can about 3 inches from the bottom. This piece will form the fuel reservoir of the stove.
wpe49.jpg (23348 bytes) Step 9: Cut the bottom off the regular sized soda can. This piece will be the priming cup.
wpe4B.jpg (26461 bytes) Step 10: Trim the excess metal off the priming cup with the scissors.
wpe4E.jpg (38707 bytes) Step 11: Trim the lower edge of the inner wall sheet to form a clean, straight edge. I use the line on the can from the nutritional information as a guide as shown in the picture.
wpe51.jpg (29462 bytes) Step 12: Trim the upper edge of the inner wall sheet to form a clean, straight edge. I use the bold line in the nutritional information box as a guide as shown in the picture.
wpe53.jpg (27257 bytes) Step 13: The very top of the "V" in V8 will line up if you use the bold line in the nutritional information section in step 12 as shown in the picture. This helps you to keep everything square.
wpe55.jpg (20432 bytes) Step 14: Roll the inner wall sheet into a tube and slide it into the fuel reservoir piece. Make the diameter of the tube such that it fits into the groove in the bottom of the fuel reservoir. The diameter of the inner wall will be about 3/8" smaller than that of the fuel reservoir.
wpe58.jpg (20344 bytes) Step 15: Cut little tabs to secure the size and shape of the inner wall as shown in the picture. I use a tab on the top edge and a tab on the bottom edge.
wpe5A.jpg (22795 bytes) Step 16: Next cut small wedges out of the bottom of the inner wall. Three or four wedges is plenty. The wedges allow fuel to flow unimpeded to the space between the inner wall and the fuel reservoir's wall.
wpe5C.jpg (15985 bytes) Step 17: Cut the same sort of wedges into the burner. Stop right at the edge where the metal starts to curve as shown in the picture.
wpe5E.jpg (14915 bytes) Step 18: This is what the wedges look like. I use four wedges staggered at 90 degrees.
wpe60.jpg (15771 bytes) Step 19: Assemble the stove by first putting the inner wall into the fuel reservoir and then coaxing the burner into place. This can be a pain in the neck. Take your time to avoid bending the cans out of shape. Just get it started and gently start pushing it down.
wpe63.jpg (14225 bytes) Step 20: As you gently push the burner down into place, check carefully at the top of the wedge cuts to make sure that there aren't any sharp points that could cut the fuel reservoir. Use the file to smooth out any sharp points as shown in the picture.
wpe65.jpg (15689 bytes) Step 21: Once you have everything ready, use your thumbs to guide the inner wall into place and slide the burner all the way down. Once it is in place trim the excess metal off the fuel reservoir.
wpe67.jpg (21532 bytes) Step 22: Use the thumbtack to poke jet holes into the side of the can near the burner. Try to avoid poking holes through the inner wall.
wpe69.jpg (21880 bytes) Step 23: Finally, use epoxy, JB Weld, or super glue to attach the priming cup to the bottom of the stove as shown in the picture. That's it!


Thru-Hiker tested weight: 0.4 oz Dimension: 1.75 " high x 2.75" diameter Material: aluminum and glue Fuel: Denatured Alcohol (preferred), Isopropyl alcohol (fuel line anti freeze), Methyl alcohol, rubbing alcohol (in a pinch). Do not use white gas or other petroleum fuels! Boils a pint of water in about six minutes.
About this design
A north bound thru-hiker named Leprechaun taught me how to make double wall stoves like this one. He was also the first person I saw use a V8 can. I added the MSR type priming cup at the bottom. With the priming cup, your pot can be placed right on top of the stove without putting the stove out. The heat from the fuel burning in the priming cup heats up the fuel in the main reservoir. Once the fuel gets hot enough, alcohol vapor will come out of the jets. It is convenient not to have to hold your pot over your stove while the stove warms up. Also,the priming cup is of great advantage in colder weather.