Thru-Hiker

20 degree Quilt questions

2012-01-16T10:48:06Z

Hi Everyone,

I was lucky enough to get a Thru-Hiker quilt kit for xmas and looking through the online instructions I have a couple of questions.

I want a 2.5” loft so hopefully it will be good to 20 degrees. Does this mean I need to make the baffles 2.5” high, or is it a bit less so the down can fill the chambers and puff it out to 2.5”?

The instructions say to cut 6” strips for the baffles, do I really need 2 inch seam allowances? would 1” be enough to double back? I can sew pretty straight.

Last one is regarding length, I understand that when filled with down the quilt will loose some length due to the puffyness. How much length roughly will be lost? I’m 6’3” so want to make sure it ends up being long enough for me.

Thanks for any help or suggestions.

Cheers,
Simon

Apex vs CS vs 3D/Delta etc

2012-01-26T18:20:23Z

OK Thru-Hikers, some time has passed by now since Climashield XP arrived and now there is a new CS on the market, Apex.

Just thought I would check and see what opinions were on this ever advancing and changing synthetic insulation.

Any opinions yet on if this Apex stuff is any improvement at all over the XP? The ratings for loft and CLO that Ayce lists seem virtually identical to XP, if memory serves. So what are the advances, if any? Maybe more durable, maintaining loft longer(does one dare hope?). Maybe more compressible? Or did they just decide to give XP a different name and it is actually the same stuff?

On that durability/maintaining loft question: has any one noticed if their XP or Combat have been holding their loft any better than PG Delta, or PG 3D or any of the previous incarnations of Polarguard? Though actually, some folks say that the newer versions, with thinner and hollow fibers, were even worse than the earliest PG at maintaining loft.

Any way, what do you folks think? Apex better than XP or Combat, and both of those holding their loft any better than 3D/Delta?

Silnet or Seamgrip for a patch?

2012-01-18T00:23:23Z

While my girlfriend was working on her quilt we discovered her sewing machine has a little snagging problem. I need to patch a few small holes on the momentum. I still have clean and clear access to the inside of the quilt and plan to apply patches made with momentum on the inside. Would silnet or seam grip work best for this purpose?

Serger Questions

2011-09-14T18:36:24Z

A question for anyone who is familiar with sergers…

It sounds like sergers can really improve the quality of projects. I am wondering about one thing, though: if the serger cuts and finishes, how does that work if you’ve already carefully cut out your fabric with scissors or a rotary cutter?

In case I decide to take the plunge, I am wondering what I should be looking for in terms of capabilities… I would be using it for projects similar to TH’s kits: UL insulated jackets, quilts, shells, etc.

So basically I would be working with lightweight nylons, and down and synthetic insulations. It would be nice if it could also do things like Lycra bindings around cuffs or hems. That’s all I am planning on using it for.

So what basic capabilities should I be looking for?

The one I am looking at is the Brother 1034D 3-4 Lay-in Thread Serger.

Basic Features:
Threads: 3 / 4
Needles: 2
Stitch Fingers: 1
Differential fabric feed: Yes
Thread tensioning: Manual
Adjustment for thread tighteness: No
2/3 Thread Change: No

Sewing Features:
Overlock Seam Width: 3.0 - 6.0mm
Stitch Width: 4.5 - 7.0mm
Stitch Length: 2.0 - 4.0mm
Differential Feed 0.7 - 2.0mm
Presser Foot Adjustment: Yes
Free Arm: Yes
Change for Rolled Hemming: Removable
Double Chain Stitch: No
Cover Stitch: No

Accessory Feet: Blind hem stitch/Multi-purpose guide foot, gathering foot

Does this sound like it would be an appropriate choice?

I appreciate any input on this. I barely understand what they do but I am quite sure that I want one. ;)

30* Down Quilt

2011-11-15T17:49:15Z

I am interested in making a down top quilt for use in a hammock. I normally sleep in a Hennesy Hammock when backpacking and already have a down underquilt. I want to make my own rectangular top quilt to decrease my packweight though. I would like to be able to use the quilt to about 30*. The quilt’s dimensions will be 80” by 50”. How much 900 fill down should I use to acheive comfort at this tempurature? Also would sewn-through baffles be fine if I only plan to use the quilt down to 30*? Thanks

Cord Lock Compatibility

2011-11-16T00:48:33Z

Can the “Tiny Cord Locks” and the “Anchorable Small Cord Locks” be used with either the 1/16” shock cord or the 1/8” GripTease draw cord?

How much does the GripTease weigh per yard, (vs the 1/16” 0.10 oz/yd)?

Does both work equally well for hem draw cords?

And will M90 hold up to the stress of using the Anchorable Cord Locks on jackets?

Materials Needed for a Kinsman shell (sasquatch size)

2011-11-15T22:10:49Z

Hello. I’m thinking of making a kinsman, but I thought it might be nice to also make a single-layer uninsulated windshirt/shell as a practice piece first.

I was wondering how much fabric it would take to make an XXL kinsman. I’ll probably be adding a few inches (3ish) to the length and the sleeves, because I am built like a sasquatch.

I guess I’ll also need 2’ of #3 zipper, some eleastic for cuffs, and some shock / cord locks for the waist.

Am I missing anything? How much yardage would I need for this?

Thanks!

nanoseeum as a liner?

2011-10-16T22:10:00Z

I am going to make a half bag (elephant foot) and was wonder if it is possible to use nanoseeum as the bag liner. I want something very breathable, and am not to concerned with the feel. It will be synthetic and the shell will be either momentum or the 1.1. Any thought would be helpful.

Collars

2011-10-16T18:23:27Z

One of the toughest parts of the Kinsman project so far (at least for me) seems to be the collar. When sewing the collar, it seems like the top fabric wants to slide out, exposing more of the bottom fabric. It even does this when sewing muslin.

In other words, as I sew the collar, instead of the raw edges of the fabric staying together as pinned, I start to see more and more of a gap between those raw edges.

If I were using the Momentum, I could see why because the fabric is much more slippery. But as mentioned, it is also doing this with cotton. I’ve tried this on two different sewing machines, as well.

Is it because I’m essentially sewing around a curve? Should I be notching the seams?

Or maybe a pressure foot setting?

Any thoughts?

Lycra Cuff Binding

2011-10-10T23:17:12Z

Is there a trick to making a Lycra cuff binding which uses a French seam on the sleeve AND minimizes the bulk in the cuff seam?

I’ve experimented and made about two dozen mini-sleeve cuffs. Getting good at the Lycra cuffs but still haven’t found a way to incorporate a French seam and not get a huge lump in the cuff…

BTW, that would be a great topic for the Projects page, to accompany the “Installing Wrist Elastic” article…