New Kinsman
Posted: 06 August 2008 05:11 AM   [ Ignore ]  
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Just finished: Kinsman large pullover with 2.5 oz Climashield XP. Weight: 9.8 oz. I’m happy.

Modifications:

1. 1 1/4” gasket behind zipper.
2. Lycra gaskets at cuffs and hips. (No drawstring.)
3. Stabilized at neck and 1” under pits. Nowhere else.
4. Front sewn through only at zipper. Otherwise inner and outer shells were kept separate.
5. No French seams. The outer and inner shells were sewn complete, then stabilized, then closed at cuffs and waist. (The basic seams were easier than the French seam, but the lycra cuffs were a b*&ch;. The lycra waist wasn’t too bad, but I’d had the cuff experience so it’s all relative.)

I haven’t tried it outdoors yet but it seems warm. It was fun to make, though I sure didn’t make any money on it. The next two will go much quicker. (A medium and a small, I think.)

Now on to the tent.

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Posted: 06 August 2008 02:41 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 1 ]  
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Guy looks great. I really like the color combo.  I would really think about stabilizing the insulation per the instructions if you plan to wash it at some point. Insulation does tend to shift over time and once it does it’s very hard to get it back.

JFF

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Posted: 06 August 2008 03:16 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 2 ]  
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I guess I should have clarified. The insulation is quilted to the inner shell at all edges and across the middle of the sleeves and back, more than Ayce asked for. The outer shell is what I was referring to; it’s attached only at the collar, (top and bottom,) cuffs, waist, 2” at the bottom of the zip, and 1” in each pit. This eliminates most of the “cold spots” where the insulation’s sewn through and makes the shell float nicely.

Guy

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Posted: 06 August 2008 03:38 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 3 ]  
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I gotcha I was wondering how/why and realized you’ve moved the finished seams from under the arms to the bottom. I’m not a big fan of the french seam either as I use a serger for most of mine.

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Posted: 06 August 2008 03:40 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 4 ]  
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Right- you did it this way because you shifted the main seam from the cuff-to-hem french seam to the bottom hem.  IE: the final raw edges are finished with lycra at the cuff and hem, rather than the cuff-to-hem french seam.  The tack you did at the armpit was a good idea as it’ll keep the shell and liner from shifting around relative to each other. 

Looks great Guy and your mods are well done. 

What size did you make and how did it work out relative to what you were expecting?

Did you change the neckline?  Did the collar fit work out the way you wanted?

How about the torso fit? 

Did the alteration info included on the pattern help at all?

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Posted: 06 August 2008 08:20 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 5 ]  
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I made a large using the small collar and tight fit and it fit well in the torso and shoulders. (I’m 6’ and 175, currently.) I cut 3” off the arm lengths. They seem a bit large in circumference. (It makes it easy to put on, though.)

I used the small collar and it worked well. It could even be a little tighter. I also used black inside the collar because I noticed my other jackets looked disgusting in this area after extended use. When I sewed the collar to the body I found that despite care it was about 1/2” longer than the body. However I simply trimmed it as seemed most practical and continued on. I found this practice to be common throughout assembly, as nothing fit perfectly. (No surprise.)

I guess the alteration info didn’t help me because I didn’t really alter the size, other than shortening the sleeves. I thought about lengthening the torso, but decided that as I wanted a minimum weight jacket I’d make it as small as possible.

All in all I’m very pleased with the result. Thanks for the product and for the interest

Guy

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Posted: 08 September 2008 12:36 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 6 ]  
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Looks like professional work! However,  I do not like having elastic at the waistline.  I find that it tends to ride up, untucking shirt tails and exposing the waist.  Having a drawcord works better for me.  If the garment does fall a few inches below the waist, the elastic might work well enough, but I still like being able to cinch in on a drawcord.

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Posted: 08 September 2008 02:46 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 7 ]  
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Well, in truth the lycra waist band was done primarily so that I could make it the last seam, thereby avoiding the sewn-through french seams through the pits. I also though I might save another 1/2 oz or so. ;-) I would normally opt for a cinch waist band, primarily for controlling warmth, (loose for cool, tight for warm.)

Guy

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