How To: adding a draft tube to the kinsman
Posted: 27 November 2008 02:47 AM   [ Ignore ]  
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Thought I would post some basic directions on how to add a draft tube to the kinsman pullover. I really like the finished look and It allows you to install the zipper to the top without it poking you in the chin, plus I’m currently making one.

The tube is made by stacking two pieces of shell fabric, and the insulating together and sewing. I stack: right side + right side + insulation on bottom. I also pull apart the insulation so it’s not full thickness. After I sew I turn right side out and top sew 1/4 from the edge. Sew the zipper tape to the tube. An iron on low can be used on low to press the tube flat before top sewing.  Notice the top of the tube is rounding, bent over and tacked (on the seam edge) to create a pocket for the zipper. . .  This is part of my 12 step process to get the economy back on track, every zipper needs a home! ;-)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3009/3061903675_83de9cc051_o.jpg

With the tube ready to go I pin the zipper to the liner then use wonder tape (god’s gift to the zipper) to hold the shell in place on the zipper tape. Keep in mind I’m following the instructions per Ayce’s directions the difference is I’m inserting the draft tub with zipper attached. Notice the white pencil make for lining up the neck seams! don’t rush.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3183/3061903423_21a6bf16fb_o.jpg

Sew just as normal, use a zipper foot and ride along the zipper. You may need to up the needle size I normally up mine to a 90 or 100 (UK sizes) depending on the layers.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3242/3062742664_f75cf184ce_o.jpg

The finished product and ready to start sewing the liner and shell together.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3059/3062742600_81571f5568_o.jpg

Keep in mind what I said about upping the needle size. Depending on the thread your using you may need to up that as well. I use the tex 40( I think that’s the size) thread Ayce sell for sewing the seams you can’t see. When I’m top stitching and need a color I use a good quality poly thread. The best thing to do is use some scraps of the fabric you’ll be sewing and either make a simple sandwich or better yet mock something up. You don’t want to be snapping thread and pulling your hair out on the finished piece.

good luck and I hope this is helpful

JFF

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Posted: 27 November 2008 12:28 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 1 ]  
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Very nice, you do good work.  In the 2nd picture I was looking at the stitching on the main pieces.  Is that an overcast stitch?  Did you do that on your regular sewing machine or is that done on a serger?

John

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Posted: 27 November 2008 03:19 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 2 ]  
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I have a standard 4 thread serger with a lock stitch that I use to sewing the shell to the insulation. To me the sergers are awesome and I couldn’t dream of doing something like this without them. I’ve got a few sewing machines but most of lighter weight stuff is done on a Bernina 950, it’s a commercial grade machine not unlike a singer 20U.  Sewing machine seem to bread in my apt, must be something in the water? ;-)

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Posted: 27 November 2008 08:29 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 3 ]  
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I have a serger, but have never had the nerve to get it out and try it.  I should though, one of these days.  I am having a problem with my Singer 500a with the lightweight material like the Momentum.  It feeds fine, but the stitches are not tight.  I can sew a line of straight stitches and then turn around and pull the stitches right out.  I am using the Jardine’s thread but have tried Gutermann poly with the same results.  Not sure what is going on with it.

John

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Posted: 28 November 2008 01:44 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 4 ]  
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I’d play with the tension. It’s the problem 90% of the time. If your finding you can sew thicker fabrics without problems but and the thinner fabrics give you trouble you most likely need to tighten it. remember to keep track of where you start so if it doesn’t work out you can turn it back.

JFF

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Posted: 30 November 2008 07:39 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 5 ]  
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Nice job and the pictures are excellent.  I would just like to emphasize to all the importance of this zipper detail.  I was hiking down the AT off of Mt. Greylock northbound in MA in a wind driven rain.  The place where I was wet and cold was the long area right down the zipper line of my rain gear. I have since added a zipper liner, not nearly as well made as the one in this thread, but I found it to be a key addition.  The rain gear was the “Packa” which now comes with a waterproof zipper. Giving the addition stiffness is important to keep the zipper from snagging.  I have added zipper backing between fabric in similar projects along zipper lines (eg. bivys)  Outer jackets often have the flap on top of the zipper, held closed with velcro.  This gives the advantage of being able to close the garment if the zipper were to fail in the field.

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Posted: 07 December 2008 09:39 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 6 ]  
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FInished up the Kinsman and every time I finish up those french seams on the arms I say “I’m going to move that seam to the bottom” but yet again I didn’t ;-) I relaxed the side seams from the armpit do the wast.

JFF

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3219/3090108311_909f1679e9_o.jpg

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Posted: 06 May 2009 01:16 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 7 ]  
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That’s a nice looking jacket you have there. I’m scared now to start one :)

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Posted: 06 May 2009 01:25 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 8 ]  
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it’s really not that bad Gunn, Just take your time and if sewing is really new to you take the time to either mock up just the shell in cotton first or maybe buy some extra zipper and mock up just that part.

JFF

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