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Advice on adding a hood to the kinsman
Posted: 19 December 2008 11:40 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 16 ]  
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I see it better now. The hood wraps the collar rather the hood and collar using the same zipper. It’s an interesting way to do it. I would think it require a relaxed neck and adding some type of drawstring to the end of the collar might be nice. You’d really have to do a lot of test fitting to make sure it fits snug.

JFF

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Posted: 20 December 2008 01:30 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 17 ]  
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I agree, it is something I’d definitely want to prototype before making.  I wear glasses which fog when I walk wearing a hood so I greatly prefer hoods be detachable (I only put them up when I stop moving).

As a side note, I distinctly remember having a coat with a similar style zip-off hood and zip-off arms when I was growing up.  Perhaps I should start planning my tricked out kinsman…
- detachable zipped hood
- detachable zipped arms
- draft tubes for zippers
- front zipper for storage
- insulated pass-through front pocket for hip-belt and hands

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Posted: 20 December 2008 02:49 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 18 ]  
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That’s a whole lot-a bling. :-) good luck and take some pictures.

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Posted: 06 January 2009 12:41 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 19 ]  
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Happy new year everyone!

I finished serging the rest of the insulation to the pre quilted liner and don’t let it fool you. I found it still requires a lot of attention. This is my first time working with the primaloft one and I could really see how much finer the strands of insulation are then the sport. So at this point I’ve got the hood attached and I"m going to start figuring out the sleeves. By that I mean figure out the cuffs. I want to move the finished seam to the bottom but also still like to use the elastic rather then binding the edge. Also I don’t want to bind the bottom as I don’t like the way it drapes.

Should have time this week to get a little more done and will post later in the week!

JFF

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1152/3174021158_58b8151182_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3260/3174021256_caeecc06f8_o.jpg

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Posted: 08 January 2009 04:01 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 20 ]  
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So one problem I was having was figuring out the best was to finish the cuffs off but NOT using a french seam to roll the edge into. So with some scraps I made a short section on sleeve end.

I finished the end just as you would normally but left 1” open on the ends. I then pull the insulation/liner and shell apart, pined each (right fact to right face) using a 1/2 seam. Then sew normally. I should have take the picture BEFORE I pined but didn’t feel like unpinning. You can however see the 1” left. This is needed so you can fold the shell over right fact to right face and sew together.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3096/3180182220_7ac432cb48_o.jpg

Once that is done you need sew that last 2” you left open.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3433/3179346475_99b1053e6c_o.jpg

The finished sample. Notice I didn’t use elastic. I’m considering going without. If however I did it would need to be top stitched AFTER you’ve seamed the sleeves. This would add some trickiness due to the tight work space.  I’m also considering just adding a short piece to the bottom.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3397/3180182138_e89ee8aab0_o.jpg

JFF

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Posted: 08 January 2009 04:39 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 21 ]  
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Moving the final seam to the bottom shouldn’t impact elastic cuffs except for the final topstitched line that forms the elastic casing which would be easiest on a free arm.  It’s a little harder not being able to work flat but not too bad.

The ‘roll the end into’ bit is what I’m not following.  Usually the wrist elastic is tacked in place an inch or so in from sleeve side’s raw edge.  This can still be done on the liner as normal.  You’d put right-sides together and sew the cuffs, collar (or in your case hood face hole), and most of the hem but not the zipper.  The jacket would be turned right-side out along the bottom hem at which time the sleeves are pulled right-side out.  Then you sew that final casing for the cuff elastic.

Through the hem-hole you’d reach up to the tabs you’ve sewn in place along the hem-to-cuff liner and shell seam (and other places such as the neckline if you did that) and stabilize the shell to the liner.

The hem-hole you’re turning inside-out and right-side out through only needs to be a foot more or less to do its job.  Usually this is placed at the tail.  Because the hole is relatively small, it’s reasonable to feed a waist draw-cord through as you did for the insulated stuff with a french side seam.  The difference is in how the cord will exit out the side, the rest is the same.

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Posted: 08 January 2009 05:27 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 22 ]  
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AYCE - 08 January 2009 04:39 PM

The jacket would be turned right-side out along the bottom hem at which time the sleeves are pulled right-side out.  Then you sew that final casing for the cuff elastic.

I guess I just wasn’t sure how I would finish off the seam at the sleeve ends. The 1” being left is the same but really for a different reason, or least in my mind then It’s for when using the french seam. Here’s it’s so you have enough fabric to join the shell right face to right face without catching the liner/insulation. Because if you did sew them together you’d see the raw edge inside the sleeve.  I haven’t added the tabs yet but did marked spots for them. I’m going to use two on each sleeve. I may also add them on the side but can do that at the time if need be.

I’m still having trouble seeing it all in my head so these small mock ups help rather then pulling out the seam ripper. I did notice you didn’t talk about finishing the zipper off without the french seam. ;-) that will differ a bit too. I think at this point I’ve got most of it worked out. Oh did I say I’m going to add a front pocket to the mix. Another thing that would have been easier with the french seam but I think I’ll attach it to the shell and treat it as one.

The other thing I did was created the button holes for the draw cord around the hood. I had forgotten about that. I’m going to use two holes on both side. The cord will come out into a small cord lock then back in the same hole and out the second hole which is about 2” lower. This will make the extra cord lay flat inside the hood rather then it hitting your chin or face (or at least that’s the idea). I’ll post something later. It’s an idea I noticed on a ready to wear wind jacket I have.

JFF

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Posted: 08 January 2009 06:16 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 23 ]  
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You’re learning a lot about the reasons why the kits use the cuff-to-hem french seam rather than the bottom hem final seam you’re using.  The original process is about as foolproof as it gets.  I agree with the reason why you wanted to do it this way though: a high basis weight of insulation.

I don’t think we’re on the same page RE cuff elastic.  There should be no raw edges visible using the method described in my last post.

RE zipper installation:  Install into the shell with slider, stops, and everything but the topstitching.  The shell will look like a completed wind pullover except it will have raw face-hole, cuff, and hem edges.  Make a box for the zipper in the liner/insulation.  When you’re joining the shell and liner/insulation wrong sides together you won’t be able to sew the zipper, so just do the cuffs, hem and the face hole of your hood and stop at the zipper. In the regular Kinsman Pullover procedure you’d have sewn up one zipper edge, around the collar, and down the other at this step.  In your case, the bottom fronts and the zippers are already fixed in place which causes problems for the regular way (note that it would have worked if it were full-zip).  Once you turn the jacket right-side out you sew through the zipper tape from the shell side into the box to secure the shell and liner/insulation at the zipper, right next to the shell fabric but in the black zipper tape using black thread so it’s invisible.  You then topstitch through the shell/liner/insulation from the shell side using shell colored thread in the spool and black in the bobbin.

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Posted: 08 January 2009 06:40 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 24 ]  
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AYCE - 08 January 2009 06:16 PM

I don’t think we’re on the same page RE cuff elastic.  There should be no raw edges visible using the method described in my last post.

I’ll have to reread what your saying with the fabric in front of me but the elastic has noting to do with it. The differences I was pointing out is you can’t close the ends of the cuff into the finished seam as one. So if you took liner/insulation and shell folded in 1/2, right face to face to right face, then sewed and pulled right side out you’d have a seam inside.

This isn’t an issue on the french seam and the reason I made the mock up. The way I’ve handed this was to sew each, independent starting at the 1” left over from finishing the edge of the cuff (elastic or not already in place). then you just pull the shell over the liner.

I’m sure this all sounds like greek, and were talking about the same thing but at least I get it now regardless of how I word it. . .

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Posted: 12 January 2009 02:51 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 25 ]  
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OK, had a bit of time to get some done.. . .The zippers in and I’ve done the top stitching. Always a good feeling getting the zipper done. Next will be to stabilize around the hood, cuffs then start closing up the seams.

JFF


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3527/3189504173_7fee470c7c_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3534/3190347666_0901cf3375_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3427/3190346320_a5fdfaf9c8_o.jpg

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Posted: 12 January 2009 03:28 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 26 ]  
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Just got off the phone with AYCE and I’m back on track! I was getting a bit mixed on on the remaining seams and the best order to do them in.  It was a bit of a mistake top stitching the face opening as I didn’t take into account how moving the final seam to the lower edge would effect the zipper. Oh well I’ve done worse at least I get why for the future. So tonight I can get the lower front installed, sew in the stabilizer tabs and maybe the cuff to lower hem seam.

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Posted: 13 January 2009 04:28 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 27 ]  
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I didn’t get much done last night as I was side tracked getting home a bit late. Due to a mix up I toped stitched the zipper so when finishing off the lower bottom it was a little trickier. In the end I got a small pucker but everything is back on track. Next will be side seams.

JFF


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3120/3193768781_4997cd094e_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3323/3193768697_2d53d942da_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3377/3193768825_c13f83c4a6_o.jpg

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Posted: 15 January 2009 03:48 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 28 ]  
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Found some time tonight to get a bit done on the pullover. I added the tabs of netting I’m using to stabilize the liner and shell. I decided to use one on each side of the lower front piece. Two on the arms, one on each shoulder,  and one at the back of the neck.  This should be enough to prevent any issues, if and when I wash it.  The tabs where added when I sewed the sided seems OUTSIDE the SEAM ALLOWANCE ;-) .

After I completed the seam I went back and stitched right over the netting to hold it inplace.

At this point I need to finish off the sleeve ends. Then do the bottom seam leaving an access spot to get at the tabs of netting and stabilize the liner and shell.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3465/3197755987_760d260098_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3117/3198602384_cd089e7099_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3110/3197755741_b5fdec430f_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3424/3198602150_169235e903_o.jpg

You can see in the last pic I relaxed the side seams a bit as I plan to wear this over a bit more clothing.

JFF

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Posted: 16 January 2009 04:36 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 29 ]  
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Progress was slowed while I figured out just what I was doing wrong. After turning the sleeves inside out and finishing off the end I couldn’t turn them back right side out. This is due to the way I had installed the zipper. So out comes the ripper, practice. . . practice. . . practice along with a magnifying light made the job not so bad. So with everything back to normal I still needed to figure out how to finish them off. I could easily just use binding to finish off the ends but really don’t like the looks so after a bit of head scratching I decided to do them as I had in the mock up a few posts before this.

It required me ripping out the side seems about 6”. I then flipped the fabric right faces together, sewed then flipped back around, and sewed back the side seams.  With this done I pulled everything back around right side out and top stitched the elastic. After doing the above it didn’t seem to bad but ads a bit of frustration trying to adjust the elastic while sewing.

Finishing off the ends of the sleeve the way I had in the mock up. It’s not unlike the way you do it in the Kinsman however you leave the first and last inch on both ends unsewn
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3410/3201743492_9257cb3749_o.jpg

With the front edge sewn I then went back and sewed the 6 inches on the side seam.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3347/3201743532_fe691724cb_o.jpg

The cuff turned right side out.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3101/3201743594_bbe400ae10_o.jpg

Top stitching the elastic
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3474/3201743634_68b6861287_o.jpg

The finished cuffs
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3310/3200898823_052f3c91a9_o.jpg

Don’t think I’ll get the bottom seam closed up tonight as I need to pack for a backpack in the catskills but should have it done next week.

JFF

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Posted: 18 January 2009 03:09 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 30 ]  
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It looks very nice.
Why do you make a draft tube? Is it for the chin or because you want it warmer in front? I saw on another project that you made a Kinsman with a draft tube, without hood.

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