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Whitney in the process
Posted: 20 March 2009 02:57 AM   [ Ignore ]  
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Just getting started with the whitney and looking over the directions Just wondering if it’s possible to finish off the bottom seams and install the draw cord like it’s done in the Maxima. The whitney directions have you roll the bottom seams after you do the french seams. Couldn’t you just finish off the bottom seams after installing the zipper and french the seams at the end?

JFF

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Posted: 20 March 2009 06:42 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 1 ]  
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Yes, you could definitely do the Whitney seams like on the Maxima, would work great that way.  Whitney directions predate the Maxima directions; Maxima more refined in some detailing.  I think in particular the waist draw cord channel & exit points are better on the Maxima.

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Posted: 21 March 2009 12:50 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 2 ]  
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Sounds good.

You know me, I was trying to find a way to cut out the french seam but in this case I think it would just make installing the down really hard.

JFF

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Posted: 21 March 2009 12:54 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 3 ]  
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In this case there is no need to remove french seam, really the best way here unless you’re going to completely redo the project with baffling (and that makes no sense unless you’re going to use _a_lot_more_fill than the design calls for).  There is no insulation bulk to complicate the french seam like there is with synthetics.

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Posted: 21 March 2009 12:58 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 4 ]  
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AYCE - 21 March 2009 12:54 AM

In this case there is no need to remove french seam, There is no insulation bulk to complicate the french seam like there is with synthetics.

Very good point, I was thinking about the seams in regards to synthetics.

JFF

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Posted: 15 April 2009 05:53 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 5 ]  
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OK, zippers in. I decided to go with a larger 2 way zipper for ease of use. I also changed to a 2 piece draft tube.  At this point I’m ready to finish up the quilting then deal with the down!. 

While installing the zipper I sewed in the tubular cord per the directions from the Maxima along with the button holes per the whitney directions. I modified the routing so the cord lock will be in the pockets. What I’m wondering is should I sew in the cord before I sew the draw cord channel and french the seams. I know the elastic would get in the way a little but I’m worried about threading the elastic cord, lining up the tubular tabs, then sewing.

The other question is when do I top sew around the zipper and collar? I don’t see it in the directions. I made my draft tube from 1.8 insulation with gross grain on the outside so I don’t need worry about stuffing it with the down.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3310/3443654444_cfa46de77a.jpg

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Posted: 15 April 2009 03:50 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 6 ]  
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It’s hard to deal with the elastic when you’re trying to do those side seams as you mentioned, but if you think you need to do it that way I don’t see any reason why you shouldn’t.  You’ve done enough of these things to have a good feel for where things are headed.

The stitching up the zipper and around the collar was page 16 step d, line of stitching #1.  Since your zipper is already in place, you appear to have omitted that step by changing the zipper/draft tube installation process.

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Posted: 15 April 2009 04:27 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 7 ]  
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Yea I know figuring it out for yourself is always the best but I can’t help but ask for the answer it’s human nature. ;-) I think I’m going to split the difference. I’m going to sew in the two front sections of shock cord. Leaving a third section that can easily be snaked at the end. The down side to this is I’ll have two tails at the cord locks rather then a loops. The upside is it’s a clean tack of of the cord. You won’t need to sew into the shell.

AYCE - 15 April 2009 03:50 PM

The stitching up the zipper and around the collar was page 16 step d, line of stitching #1.  Since your zipper is already in place, you appear to have omitted that step by changing the zipper/draft tube installation process.

In this step you’ve got the jacket right face to right to right face so your joining the shell liner for the first time. Step d says turn the shell-right side out. The next page then goes onto into stabilizing the shoulder seem.  This is right where I am in the process. Looking to future steps I didn’t see a point where right side out you sew around the zipper 1/4 from the edge to finish it off. Everything I’ve work with till this point would have already had insulation as part of the liner so I would have done it earlier. I’m guess I can wait till the end on this jacket as you need some insulation in the seam?  Are you getting what I’m asking? I can give you a call if easier.

JFF

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Posted: 15 April 2009 04:38 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 8 ]  
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Yes, I know what you’re saying now. 

The step is on page 22, #7.  You’ve changed the draft tube to synthetic, but in the normal procedure you have to wait until there’s down in there before you seal off the compartment with a vertical seam at the zipper.  There is no topstitching along the top of the collar.  Down behaves differently than the synthetics you usually use.  There should be a line of stitching for step #7 1/4” from zipper on the side without the draft tube too.

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Posted: 15 April 2009 04:55 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 9 ]  
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AYCE - 15 April 2009 04:38 PM

The step is on page 22, #7.  The normal procedure you have to wait until there’s down in there before you seal off the compartment with a vertical seam at the zipper. There should be a line of stitching for step #7 1/4” from zipper on the side without the draft tube too.

OK, I get it! I’ll just wait till I’ve got the body stuffed then top stitch the zipper. No harm no foul.

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Posted: 20 April 2009 04:02 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 10 ]  
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Should have everything ready to weight out the feathers and start stuffing. Any best practices on dealing with this. I’ve read some really interesting ways of dealing with down including setting up a tent with your sewing machine in it!! since I live in a small apt that’s not going to work.  Here’s what I was thinking slowly open the bag inside of another trash bag, pull out small amounts, put in another zip lock and weigh it? I can tare for the bag weight so that won’t be an issue. How does that sound.

JFF

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Posted: 20 April 2009 04:18 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 11 ]  
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You don’t need to weigh it in a tared ziploc.

Cut open the down bag enough to get your hand into the bag.  Put the down bag on the scale (you can use it inside a 2nd if you feel the need to- I don’t though) and pull out fistfuls of down.  You will know how much is in your fist by the amount the scale drops. 

Put it directly from your fist into the compartment.

There are a lot of different ways to do this, and I’ve tried many of them including the complicated ones with vacuums, etc, but for me the simplest works best.  Once you’ve stuffed a compartment or two you’ll be an expert and very little down will escape.  The fewest numbers of transfers is best.

Avoid locking yourself in a tiny space (like a tent) with a bag of down.  This can be dangerous as if there is an accident where the bag is opened and the down released at once you can choke.

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Posted: 20 April 2009 05:07 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 12 ]  
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Thanks Ayce,

Some of my friends have said my apt is about the size of a tent. Think that counts. ;-)

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Posted: 20 April 2009 06:48 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 13 ]  
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Ah- life in the city. 

I think most of the nightmare stories you hear are from people who are dealing with down that isn’t contained in a bag like it ships with the kits.  For example, trying to harvest down from an old item is a real mess.

You’re in the home stretch now with your whitney, won’t be long…

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Posted: 20 April 2009 06:46 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 14 ]  
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For me the home stretch, no matter how many steps are left is after the zippers in. I think to anyone who sews it a focal point. That said I haven’t had to deal with down so maybe this will be a new bench mark.

I’m on the last quilt line of stitches before I start stuffing it tonight. It’s step 7 (sew the left side of the back) on page 19. Should I sew it at 1/2” so it’s tucked into the last part of the french seam or 5/8” per the finished french seam on the pattern. I’m guessing the 5/8” but figure I might as well check.

JFF

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Posted: 20 April 2009 06:51 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 15 ]  
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It doesn’t matter, that line of stitching is just to temporarily contain the down.  The final french seam will be the permanent seal for that compartment, so you’re right in figuring it’s at 1/2”.  This way you won’t see two close lines of stitching in the final product.  You could even do it at 3/8”, or 1/4” as long as you’ve seared the raw edges well enough that they won’t unravel while you’re working.

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