Ok so I am having trouble understanding how to sew this step “Whitney stabilize the liner page 17”
Do I sew from the outside of the shell /right side so I am “stitching the ditch”
Or do I turn the jacket inside out and stitch the seams with the over cast already there.
Please help me clear up my ignorance
Thanks
Cal

Sew the neckline seam (line of stitching #1) from the right side with the shell side on top, “stitching in the ditch”.

The shoulders and armscye are sewn from inside the jacket by sewing the seam allowances together.  The small picture shows the neckline being sewn (ie: line of stitching #1).  Lines of stitching #2 and #3 are the ones where you’re sewing the seam allowances together.

Let me know if I can be of further assistance Cal.

Actually there is one more thing before I get to far along
On all the seams on page 16 “assemble shell to liner” are all the seams the double stitch and then the over cast? Thanks once again for bailing me out :)
Cal

Hi Cal,

No, those are just simple seams, but it wouldn’t hurt anything if you want to do it that way.  They are done as simple seams only because there is no specific benefit to doing it in a more complicated way.  If you want to avoid searing the raw edges, overcasting is an alternative but typically seams of 3 layer shell-insulation-liner items can be seared without having the hard edge of a seared synthetic fabric cause an irritation problem.

The ones that are overcast and double stitched are the shoulders, the armscye (“armhole”), and the neckline.  These are the lines of stitching #1,2,and 3 as seen on page 10 for the liner, and the corresponding seams for the shell on pages 11 and 12.  It’s done this way because you use those seams to stabilize the shell to the liner by sewing them together.  They also form the boundary of a down compartment.

What you’re probably wondering is why the shoulders and neckline have the seam allowance sewn together to create the down compartment and stabilize the shell/liner, but the neckline is sewn from the outside of the jacket (ie: your first question).  The reason for this is because it’s hard to get access to the neckline to stuff the collar and seal the compartment.

Let me know if I can be of further assistance.

AYCE - 17 April 2009 09:05 PM

Sew the neckline seam (line of stitching #1) from the right side with the shell side on top, “stitching in the ditch”.

The shoulders and armscye are sewn from inside the jacket by sewing the seam allowances together.  The small picture shows the neckline being sewn (ie: line of stitching #1).  Lines of stitching #2 and #3 are the ones where you’re sewing the seam allowances together.

Let me know if I can be of further assistance Cal.

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Edit: Also running into the same question with the sleeve section: do you sew JUST the seam allowances, or do you also sew through the liner and shell fabrics? (pictures attached)

Not sure if anyone is monitoring this forum anymore but if so, I am now on this step and am a little confused by the part where you stabilize shoulder yoke.

It sounds like you don’t “stitch in the ditch” here. But doesn’t that result in a double line of stitching, visible on both the shell and liner? (ie, the original stitching connecting the panels, and the new stabilizing stitch line)

I guess a related question is, do you sew directly through both the shell and liner? Or do you access the actual seam allowances and just sew those (ie, you wouldn’t be actually sewing any visible fabric)

Thanks.