New top quilt
Posted: 20 August 2009 05:59 PM   [ Ignore ]  
Member
Avatar
RankRankRank
Total Posts:  12
Joined  2008-08-05

Hi All
I am planning on building a new quilt but I want the baffles to run the length of the quilt rather than across the width of it.
Has anyone made one this way? any tips to share?
Thanks

 Signature 

“It is more fun to talk with someone who doesn’t use long, difficult words but rather short, easy words like “What about lunch?”

Winnie the Pooh

Profile
 
 
Posted: 01 September 2009 06:28 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 1 ]  
Recent Registration
Rank
Total Posts:  3
Joined  2007-06-28

Hi,

I’ve got fabric and down from thru-hiker many month ago to make a underquilt. Excellent quality! I now finally have time to sew it.

I was to ask exactly the same question. The Speer Peapod is made with length wise baffle. I wonder why. The only thing I can think is length wise baffles can prevent down to fall at the bottom when used as an underquilt.

I would also be interested to have opinions/experiences of others.

Fourmi

Profile
 
 
Posted: 02 September 2009 03:22 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 2 ]  
Member
Avatar
RankRankRank
Total Posts:  12
Joined  2008-08-05

Yes same would apply when used as a top quilt I think. The down would not move toward the out side of the quilt and become thin on the top.

 Signature 

“It is more fun to talk with someone who doesn’t use long, difficult words but rather short, easy words like “What about lunch?”

Winnie the Pooh

Profile
 
 
Posted: 04 October 2009 06:24 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 3 ]  
Recent Registration
Rank
Total Posts:  3
Joined  2008-02-12

I am in the middle of a lengthwise baffled quilt, and I will be there for a year or two (three thousand miles between me and the sewing machine).

I did make graduated baffle height so that the center of the quilt would have more loft than the edges. I haven’t filled it yet but it has been sewn, and that’s where I’m stuck.

Note: Take care in ordering the kit. You may need a longer piece of noseeum netting to make the baffles than what is included. I think I ordered netting separately to satisfy this need, but I was also using netting for other things. Anyways, make sure you have more than two yards if your quilt will be more than 72”. You can add a little on the ends, but it would be simpler (but costlier) to get a longer piece.

For the sewing. There was a good description of someone making a thru-hiker quilt on the backpackinglight forums that I took a lot of hints from. He used double-sided tape to hold the netting down for the first layer, and thin masking tape to make lines to follow on the other layer. I did something like this and it helped a lot. I can’t think of an easier way. Also, make these lines when you are cutting out the fabric so you don’t have to go back later and lay everything out (cut the netting first).

Think about the type of closure you want on top and bottom and the seam allowances needed for each. Snap, bungee with cordlock, velcro…

Remember which side of momentum goes on the outside.

When doing the lengthwise sewing for the baffles, roll the excess material on both sides to about the size of a pringles can. Then you can push the material through an 80” seam on a stationary sewing machine without everything flying around.

Careful on sewing the edges and corners of momentum. It is very lightweight fabric and can get sucked down into the sewing machine.

Don’t worry too much about how the baffles look on the inside, whether you sew straight or wavy. The only thing you can see is the thread on the outside if you use a non-black material.

One of the reasons I thought this may be applicable to lightweight backpackers is that many carry a down top layer as their insulating clothes layer. When wearing this at night, you may fluff/shake the down towards the bottom of the quilt to more evenly distribute the insulation around your body.

That’s all I can think of now. I wish I could have finished the quilt and told you more. Good Luck

Profile