Finishing up a new Kinsman and have a couple of questions…
My drawcord exits always look really tacky. (pics attached). I have yet to figure out a way to neatly accomodate the drawcord exit holes with the French seam. The problem seems to stem from when I fold it in 1/2” along the bottom hemline. While this makes it stiffer for the drawcord to come through, it also creates a bulky fold in the fabric which has to eventually be merged into the French seam. Is there a trick to smoothly integrate the fabric from the exit holes into the French seam?
I am always a little puzzled about how to sew over seam junctions, such as the shoulder yoke seam and collar seam on the “Stabilize the Neckline” step. (ie, you’re stitching along the collar and then run into the seam which connects the front and back at the shoulder yoke)
Should both sides of the perpendicular seam seam allowance you encounter (the shoulder yoke, in this case) just be folded down and sewn over? It seems like if you fold both sides down in the same direction and sew over them, it often creates a visible tuck in outer shell (could be my bad sewing technique). Or is it better to just finger press each side open (opposite directions) and sew them down that way?
Other ideas: sew up to the perpendicular yoke seam, stop, pull out the needle, jump to the other side, and restart there. Or snip the yoke seam allowance fabric right where the seam line will be, and then just stitch straight through. (this would leave the long section between the collar and sleeve seams free from being sewn down; the short sections at the ends would be sewn down)
Is there a best way to deal with these seam junctions?