insulated liberty Ridge pants
Posted: 16 May 2007 07:28 PM   [ Ignore ]  
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Ok I’ve got everything cut out but just wanted to check again about the best way construct them. I’m going to be using a serger and after giving it some thought think this is the best way to do it.

attached the inulation to the outer shell I’m going to add some elastic at the cuff. Do outer and inner seams on linner then attach elastic at bottom of pants like you would on a sleeve. I then figure I’ll attach the waistband to the shell, roll over to inside and do a simple flat seam on inside.  So the two layer won’t side around I’m going to put a single row of stiches above and below the knee all the way around.

THis way the only raw seam will be the one at the bottom of the waistband and really doesn’t make construction any harder.

how does that sound?

Joe F.

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Posted: 16 May 2007 10:27 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 1 ]  
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Yes, that’d be a good way to proceed.

I would also consider using lycra binding at the cuff. 

For the waist band, you’re then left with the raw edge at the top.  I would attach a 1/2” grosgrain strip at the waist against the liner and fold it down to the shell side of the pants so that the raw edge is now contained between the grosgrain and the pants.  You can add a couple of button holes for the drawcord exit points and sew the lower edge to the pants as well.  This finishes the seam at the top and creates a drawcord channel in one step.

AYCE

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Posted: 22 May 2007 05:49 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 2 ]  
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Ok well I’ve been sick the last few days so I had the chance to work on the liberty insulated pants. I found some problems building them as I original posted.

I had thought I could just attach the lining at the cuff and pull through. Well that works fine for a sleeve but not when dealing with a seam in the middle, you can’t pull both due to the crotch of the pants.  So I serged the shell and liner with a 4mm seam and used Lycra binding. The other problem is my sewing machine doesn’t have a free arm or a table that drops down for cuffs so going back to sewing trough at the knees is just to hard to get at.

I’ve attached a few pics but had to make them really small so I hope they look all right.

Joe F

Just a quick update. forgot to put the weight, I know it’s something we all look for but often forgot. 10.5 oz

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cuff01.jpgpants.jpgwaist01.jpg
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Posted: 23 May 2007 02:01 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 3 ]  
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I’m having a hard time visualizing where you had a problem regarding the crotch. 

Before you mated the shell and insulation/liner, you should have had what looked to be two pairs of pants with all of the seams sewn except for the raw edges at the cuffs and waist, yes?

Pants looks good- the way you did the waist draw cord looks effective and quick.  The lycra at the cuffs also looks good.

It looks like there could be a little bit more taper to the lower legs- what do you think?

Nice pictures.  I’ve increased the size of the allowable files from the default values- thanks for the mention of the difficulty RE: sizing. 

AYCE

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Posted: 23 May 2007 03:42 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 4 ]  
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Yes I sewed both the linner and shell complete then mated and finished off waist and cuff. However I thought before I started when I got that point I could just sew the cuff of the linner to the cuff of the shell and pull inside out. Not thinking I would need to have already finished off the crotch. No big deal just didn’t see it coming.

Doing it over I would taper the leg a little, from the knee down and add a little to the seat or hips. Looking at the picture they look a bit more chunky then they are I tried a few different angles but most came out poor.

I’d like to make another pair using some of your quilted 6oz but currently getting started on the kinsman pullover.

JFF

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Posted: 23 May 2007 11:54 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 5 ]  
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Dig. . . Dig. . . Dig. . . It hit me on the bus ride home from work. I sewed the insulation to the shell and when I was mating it the liner I just couldn’t figure how to get the liner inside shell after sewing them together.

Well it hit me on the way home I could have tunred the shell with insulation inside out, down the same to the liner, sewn at cuffs then pulled the liner over the insulation and turned right side out!

I guess that’s why I rode the short bus. ;-)

JFF

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Posted: 24 May 2007 12:05 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 6 ]  
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Yes- that’s right.  The way you did it turned out well and now you understand the process at a deeper level.  I don’t think it makes a big difference with pants since you finished the cuffs with lycra which deals with raw edges just fine.

RE knee quilting:  usually this is done by working with the pieces flat prior to assembly.  This is a common technique for things with complex shapes like clothing.  You’d run the two quilting lines above and below the knee on the liner/insulation piece prior to attaching the fronts and backs; your machine would have no problem even if it doesn’t have a free arm.

2nd picture you posted shows the taper of the leg a little better.  You can sometimes pull on these shell/insulation/liner items before final assembly and alter the fit a bit by pinning and then running more lines of stitching.

It looks like your kayaks behind the pants- nice!

AYCE

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Posted: 24 May 2007 02:53 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 7 ]  
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When you in live in a apt, all space is used!

Cheers!

Joe F

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Posted: 07 June 2007 11:55 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 8 ]  
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I took some pictures of me with the pants on so you can get a better idea od fit. For my size I thought the L.R pants patter really works well right from the get go. I think as you said tapering or peging (for you 50’s people) the legs might cut down on the bulk. I also thought adding some in the seat some when your bending over or sitting might be helpful.

JFF

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Posted: 07 June 2007 07:07 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 9 ]  
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Great pictures- like you said you get a much better feel for how they fit with the new shots.  Looks great Joe- nice job.

AYCE

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