Kinsman Draft Tube, Part 1
Posted: 08 June 2013 07:18 PM   [ Ignore ]  
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Total Posts:  70
Joined  2011-03-05

I wanted to add a draft tube to my Kinsman and found a great tutorial on this site:

I found it very useful and used it as a starting point for my project.

Since sometimes it helps to see something from two perspective, I thought I would include the way I ended up doing it. You can mix and match, or make it even better with your own version!

One thing I found very helpful: ironing the fabric at several points in the process. It only takes a few seconds but makes life much easier.

If you use a serger, consider making the Primaloft somewhat bigger than the pattern on all sides (in the form of a rectangle), so you can give the serger some running room before it hits the fabric. I sometimes find it can sometimes bunch up at the beginning with the light stuff. You eventually serge or trim all the extra stuff off.

This is not the actual draft tube I used on my project - it’s the one I used as an example for this, so it’s a little sloppy!


Draft tube pattern: The width can be as little as the exact width of your zipper, or as wide as you want it. You can place the zipper anywhere on it but keep in mind that if you use a strip of grosgrain, the zipper has to be running on top of it. (ie, if the zipper is too far over, it will miss the grosgrain). And while the grosgrain and zipper can be put anywhere on the draft tube, I found it much easier to keep everything lined up so it all ends up on the raw edge of the jacket later. So in other words, I aligned everything (grosgrain, zipper, etc) with the long end of the draft tube. Then later, it was easy to place in the jacket.

Step 1. Cut out a piece of fabric slightly bigger than the draft tube pattern. Fold it in half, RS together. Run a not-very-hot iron over it to get it nice and flat (but hopefully not melted).

Step 2.  Cut out a piece of Primaloft. You can make it a rectangle, quite a bit bigger than the pattern. You’ll trim or serge the extra parts off later. Depending on the thickness of your Primaloft, you might want to pull apart some of the layers to avoid it being too thick and bulky.

Step 3. Pin the pattern to the folded (RS together) fabric, on top of the Primaloft. Make sure you put the folded side of the pattern on the folded side of the fabric! (voice of experience)

Step 4. Cut out the pieces.

Step 5. Un-pin and iron the fabric, folded RS together.

Step 6. Re-pin the fabric to the Primaloft and sew layers together. Sew the two short ends and along the folded side, keeping as close to the edge as you can without missing. Anything less than 1/8” is fine. Don’t sew along the long end, or you won’t be able to turn it inside out later. (Note: in the picture, you can see where some extra fabric bunched up at the corner. I took that seam apart with a seam ripper and re-stitched before proceeding.)

Step 7. You can trim or serge off any extra off at this point.

Step 8. Turn the draft tube inside out. Poke at the ends with a wooden skewer/pencil eraser, etc to get the corners out.

Step 9. Iron the draft tube again with an iron on low heat.

Step 8. Pin the grosgrain on the front.

Step 9. Sew the grosgrain on the draft tube. Use grosgrain colored thread unless you want to use a contrast color. Note: you can also run the grosgrain all the way up to the top of the draft tube. However, if you do, note that the thread you use will be visible when you turn the top over. That may or may not be what you want.

Continued on Kinsman Draft Tube, Part 2…