Whitney: Complete!
Posted: 18 January 2016 07:35 PM   [ Ignore ]  
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Joined  2011-03-05

After many months, I finally finished my Whitney project.

https://flic.kr/p/CjU639

It took a long time because I made two prototypes: one with muslin and some cheap fiberfill, and then a second one with cheap, bad ripstop and cheap, bad duck down. Both times I altered the pattern so this finished Whitney is considerably different than the original pattern.

After making several Kinsmans, I had a pretty good idea of what my basic measurements on the pattern should be, so I altered most of the pieces - some a little, and some a lot. The fit ended up pretty good overall but I neglected to account for “shrinkage” from the down puffing the compartments out, so it’s a pretty snug fit. That makes it super warm but won’t allow for much layering.

I made a few other modifications. I added an inner zip pocket and a mesh drop pocket. I also changed the sleeve cuff style, increased the draft tube size, and added a Lycra binding on the hand-warmer pockets.

Inner Pocket:

https://flic.kr/p/DhpQLK

Mesh Drop Pocket:

https://flic.kr/p/DhpQHP

The mesh drop pocket was pretty easy: you just sew it into the three seams as you go. The inner pocket was a little tricky to figure out. I ended up installing the zipper on the pocket panel, and then attaching the pocket panel onto the Front Liner panel. You have to leave the back seam open (where it intersects with the sleeve) so you can sew the quilting line in later.

For the sleeve cuff, I tried to emulate the Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer. I wasn’t able to duplicate it exactly the way they did it but I think the final result is fairly similar. I like it because it snugs down on your wrist while still allowing the sleeve to loft out a bit more. I practiced this one many times before I committed to it for real.

https://flic.kr/p/D7QKF1

I also decided to fill the Outer Pockets with down from the side, and then close them with a Lycra binding:

https://flic.kr/p/CHUQ9X

This was pretty easy and makes filling the pockets a snap. The first prototype I did, I did it the way the instructions recommend and it was very tough to stick the insulation into that little hole.

Ditto for the collar. What I did for stuffing the collar was change the entry hole from the end of the collar to the seam at the left shoulder yoke. I left a 3” hole and that made it pretty easy to stuff the down into the collar. I was very careful sewing it up and you cannot see the stitching at all.

I also doubled the width of the Draft Tube:

https://flic.kr/p/Ck2fvx

https://flic.kr/p/Df6w5A

Not only does it really insulate behind the zipper but it also makes the top of the collar more cushioned and comfortable.

The hard part for some these modifications was trying to figure out when and where they go into the instructions. I wanted a standalone shockcord channel and I had one all ready but then I accidentally sewed the bottom hem RS together, which then eliminated the possibility of that. So I ended up going with the original way of doing the shockcord channel which worked fine too. I used grommets vs buttonholes, with the cordlocks anchored in the seam.

https://flic.kr/p/CQhSwd

I’m pretty happy with the way it turned out. I made no major, un-correctable mistakes and all my “features” came out pretty much the way I wanted them to. I’ll definitely be making another Whitney and try to refine the fit a little and maybe try a few new features.

The numbers:

Size: XL
Weight of jacket components (fabric, zipper, pockets, etc but minus down): 7.51 oz
Down weight (850 FP): 11.94 oz
Total weight: 19.45 oz
Percent down: 61.4% (ie, 61.4% of the jacket’s weight is down)

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