PL sport 1.8oz Purple Kinsman pullover
Posted: 26 September 2007 03:32 PM   [ Ignore ]  
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I modified or “graded” a large Kinsman pullover that I reduced the arm and shoulder while increasing the waist about ½ in to fit my size better.

I’ve attached a picture of the shoulder part of the pattern as reference for anyone interested. The process took extra time as I went through three revisions in cotton moc ups but I’m really happy with the fit.

In addition I removed all scrim before sewing to save some weight, which ended up at 9oz.

Joe F

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Posted: 26 September 2007 05:52 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 1 ]  
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That Kinsman looks great.  This is the one where you adapted the Medium sized arms to the large size torso?  Nice job with the armscye

Based on the weight, it looks like you went with the 1.8 oz Sport and didn’t add things like pockets and a draft flap.  It looks like lycra binding at the waist- what do you think about it in comparison to the standard waist shock cord?  Your last one with the 3.0 oz sport, draft flap, and kangaroo pocket came in 4 oz heavier at 13 oz.


Kinsman Insulation Comparisons

AYCE

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Posted: 26 September 2007 07:39 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 2 ]  
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Yes I did use you med as a starting point, I can really appreciate the time you put into this after working with them.

I used the armscye ;-) from Med as a start point on the upper fronts then changed the taper of the sleeve. The back is mostly unchanged.  I widened the lower front a 1/2” to then removed the flare out at the waist. I did this to reduce the need for the waist cord ( I did not use one) but still have room around the belly.

I think I could have added another inch for my arms and maybe add another 1” back in at my shoulders however I’m very happy with the fit. I’m not the biggest fan of the French seams but I really worked to keep them as small as I could.

As far as the do-dads such as the front pockets, draft tubes and such I think they have there place depending on how you plan to use it. I made this with the idea of keeping it really light so I could carry it late spring or early fall and not be mad at myself for carting it around even if it’s not needed.

Have you ever thought about doing one in down similar to the Patagonia down sweater?

Joe F

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Posted: 26 September 2007 09:10 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 3 ]  
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As far as the do-dads such as the front pockets, draft tubes and such I think they have there place depending on how you plan to use it. I made this with the idea of keeping it really light so I could carry it late spring or early fall and not be mad at myself for carting it around even if it’s not needed.

Agreed.  I draw the line at 3 oz of insulation or more, or one that will see more use off the trail than on. 

RE waist draw cord:  I have a couple of these things with no waist draw cord, including a whitney.  It works OK, but I think at a minimum lycra is worth the weight and minimally complicating.  In the next design iteration items with less than 3 oz insulation will go with lycra at cuff and hem.

Have you ever thought about doing one in down similar to the Patagonia down sweater?

Yes, I have.  I decided against releasing it because the weight advantage of using down becomes less and less significant as the amount of fill becomes smaller, but the disadvantages with regards to moisture are unchanged. The Whitney is pretty burly, and it is on the borderline with 5 oz +/- 1 oz fill depending on size.  Much less than that and you have to do some complicated baffle work to keep it lofting evenly, such as box-baffling which is a PITA.  Down is at its best in large items like sleeping bags which are less likely to be exposed to the elements in the same way as outerwear.

AYCE

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