Feedback needed on 2person tarptent concept
Posted: 04 November 2007 01:05 AM   [ Ignore ]  
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I am considering making a tent like this, my wife won’t tarp out with me so i want a light weight tent to use with her.  I also really enjoy designing and making stuff.  The idea for this came from the Tacoma & the lunar duo.  I off centered the pole to increase head room.  I would like to know if you think this idea is worth pursuing.

Marsh

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Posted: 04 November 2007 10:40 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 1 ]  
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Finding a way to make it possible for a spouse to be a willing partner in backpacking is definitely worth pursuing.

The tarptent concept looks good too.  Just two comments.

* sylnylon (all nylon) stretches when it gets wet and cool.  You’ll want a guyout loop in the center of that large rectangular sloping roof.  This can be glued on with GE Silicon II sealer.  I stitch a grosgrain loop to a 4” circle and glue the circle to the center of the silnylon panel

* I’d make provisions for ventilation.  Pitch it with the edges a few inches off the ground, have some sort of vent at the top and try to make it possible to leave the door at least half open when you don’t think it’ll rain at night

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Posted: 04 November 2007 01:10 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 2 ]  
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Looks great.  The front looks nice and spacious, kind of like the veritable clip flashlight.

2nd on Jim’s ventilation comment.  It looks like the dark line is where the door opening is, right?  Maybe two sliders on that zipper so you can open up a top vent.

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Posted: 04 November 2007 02:21 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 3 ]  
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As far as venting.  Both the front and the back of the large panel should be able to be propped up in the middle, and the doors should be able to be rolled back almost half even in a storm, or one door down one rolled back depending on wind direction.

I could just as easily shorten the beaks so they don’t seal with the ground leaving a space for air to circulate at all times.

Any suggestions as to which is better, or if it makes much a diff either way.

Door is center of beak on each side.  With a full mesh panel behind.  haven’t yet decided how to open/close the mesh, i am a little intimidated by zipper installation, but the wife will settle for nothing less than FULL insect protection.

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Posted: 07 November 2007 10:40 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 4 ]  
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Because you are able to roll back the doors on a still night when you need ventilation, keep your beaks so they extend to the ground.  On a windy night when condensation won’t be a problem, you might be glad to have the beaks go all the way to the ground to cut out a cold draft or the wind.  Zipper on a mesh works fine especially since mesh does stretch easily.  Velcro hooks can tear mesh. How did you create those drawings.  Nice job.  I am not exactly sure what I am seeing in your third view, however.  The grey is the floor space, right?  The view is looking up from underneath with the 12” and 7” measurements being that of the netting?

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Posted: 07 November 2007 10:55 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 5 ]  
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Yeah pic 3 is the underside.  I just used google’s skecthup, as suggested on the BPL forums.

I think you’re right about making it flush to the ground with the ability to roll back doors and prop up centers of main panel.  I was a little worried about draft and that way i can control the amount of wind into shelter, and at the same time have the ability to vent it during heavy storms and cool weather.

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Posted: 08 November 2007 12:56 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 6 ]  
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I think that you will find that the back large sloping rectangle (top) will form a concave puddle near the bottom in rain or snow if the edge between the two stakes is taught.  you might try an experiment with a piece of fabric the same size by binding the edges and fixing the attachment points at heights and distances similar to the finished item.
On my first tarp tent I had the very annoying experience of a similar panel filling with about 3 inches of water, periodically “burping” it on the ground next to me, filling again, etc.
To help resolve this, consider a catenary cut on that (and other) edges.
I had a post on the old forum showing a design for my TautTarpTent with the kind of cuts I’m talking about, but it’s gone.  I’ll try to dig up the info again if anyone’s interested.
Picture of finished tent attached.
joe

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Posted: 08 November 2007 02:24 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 7 ]  
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I think that you will find that the back large sloping rectangle (top) will form a concave puddle

That’s almost certain. A stake point at the middle of that back edge and a guy-out in the center of the top panel would help a lot.

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Posted: 08 November 2007 02:38 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 8 ]  
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The 2-pole front end will provide a lot of head clearance.  I agree with the other reviewer that the 59” rear spread will result in a puddle unless you add a center stake.  You might also consider two small poles (or a low arch) on the rear end for 2 reasons - 1) ventilation and 2) space.  The Contrail uses the 2 rear poles (I have this design and am quite pleased).  Also, if I computed the specs correctly, you have a rather shallow 26-degree angle on the rear of the tent.  The foot of your bag will need to be more than 15” away to keep from touching the top.

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Posted: 09 November 2007 02:49 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 9 ]  
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I was thinking that the middle of that long edge would be propped up with a small stick or pole.  That should fix the puddle issue.

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Posted: 15 November 2007 10:10 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 10 ]  
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MarshLaw303 - 09 November 2007 02:49 AM

I was thinking that the middle of that long edge would be propped up with a small stick or pole.  That should fix the puddle issue.

If you put a pole on any edge it will not solve the puddle problem.  If you mean that you are going to put a pole in the center of the large panel it might help, but it might not entirely solve the problem.  I still suggest testing with a panel of fabric and a garden hose before going the trouble of constructing your tarp.  Also, it would behoove you to do some research into cantenary cut edges.  If done properly they help distribute the tension more equally across the entire surface of each panel.
joe

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Posted: 16 November 2007 02:59 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 11 ]  
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after a lot of thought and many designs i have decided to make a more traditional style tarp tent like the shires models.

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Posted: 16 November 2007 03:10 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 12 ]  
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You might be interested in the pattern from Six Moon Designs for their tarptent.  Although built for one, they do give a pattern for a catenary cut.  Catenary cuts really can take out the center sag and any need for a center pole.
http://sixmoondesigns.com/ultralight/myo_NightWing.asp

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Posted: 16 November 2007 03:35 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 13 ]  
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maybe it’s just me but i don’t care too much about cat cut.  i have made tarps without that pitch great.  i made the jay ham tarp w/o cat cut and it pitches very tight, so other than being cool i don’t see the need

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Posted: 16 November 2007 12:38 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 14 ]  
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Hello,

I’ve made something like this. here is a picture of it.
I’m quite busy, I can’t give detailes now but I’ll do it as soon as possible.

JeanChristophe

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Posted: 16 November 2007 09:43 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 15 ]  
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JC,

That looks very much like what i was originally thinking.  It looks like a ton of space.  Nice job.  When you get a chance can you give some more info.  How it is in the wind, dimensions stuff like that.

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