General question on cutting patterns
Posted: 24 May 2007 03:44 PM   [ Ignore ]  
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Ayce I’m trying to develop some best practices for when I make patterns myself but also modify and cut other designers patterns, like you.

When working with insulation pieces what’s the best way to cut them with a rotary cutter?

Is it best to place insulation on top of fabric, or between it. Also facing of fabric, I tend to with insulated pieces put fabric the way it should end up, so wrong sides together but noticed you say right sides together in the liberty ridge insulated pullover, why?

JFF

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Posted: 24 May 2007 04:53 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 1 ]  
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Ayce I’m trying to develop some best practices for when I make patterns myself but also modify and cut other designers patterns, like you.

When working with insulation pieces what’s the best way to cut them with a rotary cutter?

Is it best to place insulation on top of fabric, or between it. Also facing of fabric, I tend to with insulated pieces put fabric the way it should end up, so wrong sides together but noticed you say right sides together in the liberty ridge insulated pullover, why?

I like to put the fabric on top so that I can monitor the stretch.  Some folks place the insulation in the middle, but IMO it’s really easy for stretch of the insulation to throw off the accuracy of the cut, especially when you’re cutting across the insulation grain.

The largest rotary cutting mat you can afford and manage is a key buy.  Sounds like you’re already set up for that- thought I saw an olfa 3-piece in one of your pics.  The Rhino cutting mats from cutting-mat.com (no affiliation) are cheap and effective; I use a 5 by 10’ one of those for my cutting markers.  These can be stored under an area rug in a space constrained house or apartment.

I also think I saw pattern weights in your picture- another good tool.  I use cast iron bacon presses.

Smaller diameter wheels are better for complex shapes than the large wheels.  southstar supply is a good resource for bulk cutting wheels.  So much easier to replace a dull wheel than monkey around with one that isn’t cutting in one spot every revolution.  Larger wheels last much longer and work fine for most markers.  Tough to accurately cut some things with a large wheel though.

RE right side and wrong side together:  if there’s a hard and fast rule on this I don’t know it.  I think it’s important to be consistent, especially when dealing with large stacks like both sleeves (6 pieces) or fronts with pockets (12 pieces).

If you’re serious about learning pattern making (steep learning curve), pick up a copy of Kathleen Fasanella Entrepreneur’s Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing.  Another useful book is Rocky Harper’s outerwear book (forgot the title) which has extremely useful ease and alteration instructions in a few pages in the back.  You could probably “look inside the book” at amazon to come up with these charts and instructions.

AYCE

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